October 2, 2018 By bangkok7
Last weekend, Patpong was favored with its newest Sunday Carvery—namely, the very sophisticated and refined Steakhouse Co.’s newest claim to fame. It was, as one might imagine, wondrous.
I hadn’t made a reservation, so I went out of my way to be the first one in the door, having fasted since lunch the day before (which consisted of the Steakhouse Co.’s new Saturday prime rib—more on that later), so I was feeling peckish. And when the owner said it would be another 10 minutes, I decided to distract myself with the free-flow wine offer. There are three reds and three whites on the all-you-can-drink Sunday list: A merlot, a cab, a sangiovese, a pinot grigio, a sauvignon blanc, and a Prosecco. I started with a glass of cab AND a glass of pinot grigio, and when you go I recommend doing the same and here’s why: the carvery buffet consists of a variety of items. Some of them pair well with red while others pair well with white. It’s best to have both so you can taste the food with both. I had just enough time to sample both wines before the knife man emerged and took his place at the meats. I practically flew to grab the first plate.
Now, if you’ve read my review of Shenanigans’ carvery—and obviously, now that there are two great Pong roasts I’ll of course have to do a head-to-head review next week—you’d know that I approach the buffet with a strategy. Meat first, everything else later, if there’s still room. But the Steakhouse didn’t just trot out the usual fare. The most meticulous attention is given to every dish, even the ones that would normally be mundane. So after impatiently waiting for slices of the prime rib beef, the ham, the pork loin, and the lamb, I carefully picked from the sides: creamed spinach, carrots (I know, crazy, right?) mashed potatoes, meat-and-stuffing balls, and Yorkshire pudding. That was round one. I floated back to my seat.
Eschewing logic, I postponed the meat and instead ate the spinach and the carrots first. Both were excellent. The word that first came to mind was “decadent.” I know, one doesn’t usually use that word when referring to vegetables. Nonetheless, it’s an apt description, especially when paired with the pinot grigio. Speaking of, I wanted to keep sipping it, so I tried the pork loin next. It was perfect, with a crispy breadcrumb coating that sealed in the juice. I’d drizzled some mushroom gravy over the pork—deliriously good. And the pinot made it sing. Then on to the ham, which was delicate, sweet-and-salty, cooked to perfection (actually, everything was cooked to perfection. Every bite of every dish was inspired and inspiring. Then I switched to the cab so I could try the beef and the lamb. Both were to die for.
Then I alternated between the pudding and the stuffing meatballs—a thing I’d never tried before. They were delightful, especially with the beef gravy. The only thing left on my plate after that was the mashed potatoes. They were good, that’s all. Compared to other mashed potatoes I’ve tried, they were terrific. But compared to the other extraordinary items in the buffet, they were just good. So after a few bites, I abandoned the potatoes and opted for a new plate. This time a grabbed a little smidge of everything else on offer: the country potatoes, peas, cauliflower cheese, bacon-n-cabbage, and those little bacon wrapped weenies. I’m American so I don’t understand the weenies as part of a Sunday roast, but everybody seems to serve ‘em. What sets The Steakhouse’s weenies apart from the rest is the quality of bacon they’re wrapped in. Just lovely. The rest of the stuff in that list was…….fine. I get it, it’s the stuff you put on your plate to fill in the empty spots between the meat, stuffing, and pudding. Everything had a distinct and unique effect on the palate. But they were merely 5th business in the shadow of the meats. And the wine.
With the new plate, I switched to the Sangiovese for the red and Prosecco for the white. The Sangiovese didn’t really go with anything, but that’s to be expected. Nothing tomato-based in the carvery. But the Prosecco was—the Prosecco—well, it was the hero of the day. It went with absolutely everything, except the beef which was complimented perfecty by the cab. The Prosecco paired with the lamb so fantastically well that I was in disbelief. It was also great with the ham. And I had a little bit left when they set the chocolate mousse in front of me.
All told, it was a magical experience. Such care was taken to first choose the right ingredients, then prepare everything with expert perfection, then paired with extraordinary wines. Add to that the beautiful venue and the friendly and helpful staff, and you get exactly what The Steakhouse Co. wants you to get—to eat like a big shot every Sunday, if you can afford it. At 899b plus 599b for the free-flow wine, it isn’t the cheapest roast in town. But it’s one of those rare dining experiences that’s actually worth the money. The folks at the Steakhouse Co. took great care to find a balance between serving food that met their standards while at the same time keeping the price as low as possible. Job well done by all.
I think what sets The Steakhouse carvery apart from every other carvery I’ve tried, which basically means every other carvery in Silom, is that they’ve paired wines with the food that absolutely enhance and enrich the taste of the food. It took the experience to the whole new level. This carvery is the carvery for people with refined taste. If you’re the kind of person that just wants to wolf down your food while watching a football match, and you just want the comfort of familiar fare and don’t care a lot about how it tastes, don’t come to The Steakhouse. You’re wasting your cash. On the other hand, if you want a carvery that elevates you out of the mundane, where every bite is pure pleasure, treat yourself. And get the free-flow wine along with it. After two glasses, it’s paid for itself.
Tune in next week for a head-to-head comparison of the two best Sunday carveries in Silom.